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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.